Development of dual-core spun yarn using different fiber as a core by hamel twisting (elasto twist) technique and its impact on the denim fabric performance

Olgun Y., BABAARSLAN O., Habib A.

Journal of the Textile Institute, 2024 (SCI-Expanded) identifier

  • Publication Type: Article / Article
  • Publication Date: 2024
  • Doi Number: 10.1080/00405000.2024.2351252
  • Journal Name: Journal of the Textile Institute
  • Journal Indexes: Science Citation Index Expanded (SCI-EXPANDED), Scopus, Applied Science & Technology Source, Compendex, INSPEC
  • Keywords: Dual core-spun yarn, elastane and filament, elasto twist technique, fabric properties, yarn properties
  • Çukurova University Affiliated: Yes


Textile industries constantly explore innovative methods to increase fabric and yarn properties meeting multiple consumer demands and yarns (dual core) especially those incorporating an elastic core have obtained concentration for their potential in producing fabrics with improved stretch and recovery properties. This study focuses on the manufacturing of yarns (double core) using Hamel Twisting (Elasto twist) techniques utilizing core materials wrapped with 'S' and 'Z' directions such as polytrimethylene terephthalate/polyethylene terephthalate (T400®), PBT (Polybutylene terephthalate), PES (Polyester) and elastane (Lycra®). The yarns are manufactured utilizing an adjusted spinning technique (ring) and the work focuses on core materials wrapped with 'S' and 'Z' direction to the dual-core spun yarns using the Hamel Twisting (Elasto twist) method and also includes the manufacturing of denim fabrics (3/1 ‘Z’ twill) utilizing the developed yarn as weft. The article presents a comprehensive analysis of yarn properties, including unevenness, strength, neps (+200), elongation, thick place (+50), hairiness, and thin place (−50), and subsequently evaluates the fabric properties, such as weight (dry and washed), elasticity %, tensile strength, growth %, tearing strength, stiffness, and shrinkage. The statistical analysis utilizes Two-way ANOVA to examine the significant variations in fabric and yarn characteristics among several core components and their wrapped directions. The findings present an understanding of the performance of yarns (double core) manufactured through the elasto twist method, offering precious insights for applications in multiple textile products, including denim fabrics.